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Feedline, Connectors, Coax and more… The feedline and the connectors (and how well you waterproof them) can make or break a system. In duplex service you want to avoid any coax that has disimilar metals rubbing against each other (such as LMR-(any 3-digit or 4-digit number) or Belden 9913, both of which use an aluminum foil shield rubbing against a copper braid). I repeat – any cable that has dissimilar metals pressed together will create duplex grunge. Even something as simple as a 1-foot-long 9913-based jumper at the top of the tower between the antenna and the Heliax feedline can cause major desense problems (and for a long time the antenna manufacturers were shipping jumpers made from 9913 with their antennas). 9913 and LMR-NNN or LMR-NNNN works just fine on simplex systems, but is a disaster just waiting to happen on a duplex system (where NNN is any 3-digit number and NNNN is any 4 digit number). RG-214 has two silver-plated braids and a silver-plated inner conductor. RG-393 is similar but has teflon outer jacket. Both are the larger diameter (i.e RG-8/213 size) and RG-142/RG-400 is the smaller diameter (RG-6/RG-58/RG-59 size). Use real Mil-Spec RG-214 as the jumper between the feedline and the antenna. In an email to repeater-Figtree Pockets Builder, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY wrote: Genuine, MIL-C-17 RG-214/U coaxial cable has double concentric silver-plated copper shields. Several companies manufacture an RG-214 “TYPE” or “LIKE” cable that is very similar, but without the silver plating. As you would expect, it’s a lot cheaper than the genuine RG-214/U stuff. Such “TYPE” or “LIKE” cable may also have less braid coverage than the genuine cable. Genuine RG-214/U has to meet the Mil Spec Number MIL-C-17. If the manufacturer is going to ignore one part of the specification (the silver plating) what is preventing him from ignoring another part (the outer jacket UV resistance, or the braid density, or the purity of the copper in the center conductor or braid)? If you don’t see RG-214/U Mil Spec Number MIL-C-17 printed on the jacket, it’s not real RG-214/U cable. You will minimize your feedline problems if you stick to Superflex, RG-214, RG-393 or RG-400 on the radio side of the duplexer, Heliax on the antenna side of the duplexer, and RG-214 as the jumper between the antenna and the feedline. Note that RG-400 is more lossy than the larger cables – it’s spec’d at 9.6dB of loss per 100 feet at 400MHz. It’s jumper material, not feedline material. More details . You will want to use all silver plated connectors and absolutely minimal adapters (and those need to be silver plated) in your connections from the transmitter or receiver to the duplexer, from the duplexer to the feedline and from the feedline to the antenna. NO nickel plated or chrome plated anything in the RF area anywhere! Nickel and chromium are ferrous metals and both are an intermod creator anywhere around RF. It’s detectable at 10m and 6m and has proven to be a real problem at 2m, 220, 440 and 900MHz. Mark AbramsWA6DPB said it well when he said “One nickel or chrome plated anything can really ruin your whole day”. Another rule: Nothing but teflon insulated silver plated connectors and minimal adapters on anything above 30 Mhz. Use a right-angle connector rather than a normal connector and a right angle adapter. If you absolutely HAVE to use an adapter, always use a silver plated adapter (Kings and Amphenol are the preferred brands), never chrome or nickel. And make sure you replace that adapted cable with the proper one on the next radio site trip. Eric Lemmon WB6FLY wrote: I personally have settled exclusively on crimp-type connectors made by RF Industries, and I swear by them. Whether N or BNC, I use only the silver-plated connectors with gold-plated center pins and Teflon dielectric. It helps to have the proper tools to strip and crimp each connection, and I am very pleased with the quality. RF Industries main web page is at http://www.rfindustries.com… Their connector page can be reached via the main page or at http://www.rfcoaxconnectors.com Waterproofing the junction between the Heliax and the connector, between the heliax connector and the antenna jumper and the junction from the jumper to the antenna is also VERY important. Waterproofing can be problematic on the “Y” junctions (also called “Y splices”) in a multi-dipole phasing harnesses. DO NOT SCRIMP on the waterproofing. I repeat, DO NOT SCRIMP on the waterproofing. You abolutely have to keep the moisture out of any feedline or harness junctions. I saw one situation where the repeater just would not work right, and finally someone suggested that they check the feedline. They removed the jumper from the duplexer to the feedline and plugged the feedline end into a Bird Termaline. At that point things settled down and the repeater started to work properly. Somone decided to remove the Heliax connector on the bottom end of the feedline, and about a quart (a liter) of water poured out. The heliax connector at the top of the tower had not been fitted properly… Before they were done they had to replace the antenna (that was for a different reason), the 9913 coax jumper between the feedline and the antenna (“But it came with it, it has to be the right stuff”), and 200 feet of 7/8inch Heliax (corroded internally). Not cheap, but necessary. And the second time they used someone who knew how to properly attach the Heliax connectors to the cable, and how to waterproof a junction. Don’t go cheap on the Heliax feedline. Look at the dB-loss-per-hundred-feet numbers before you shell out your dollars. Most of my runs are in the 90 to 150 foot range. Long ago I decided that for UHF I was going to stick with 7/8inch and for 1200MHz it was going to be inch-and-five-eights. You can get away with 1/2inch on 6meters or 10meters. Heliax is a corrugated jacket feedline. Some early versions of it used a spiral corrugation pattern instead of the annular they use now. They changed the design after they discovered that rain and melted ice water was wicking down the feedline and into the lower connectors using the helical corrugation as the primary path. Good luck finding connectors for spiral corrugation feedline-nobody makes them any more, all that is available is what’s already out there.

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RE: Max’s Thread – UK Escapade Date: 29 Aug 10 – 05:53 AM Harumph!Could we please stop all this typical American shite? Speaking as an American and now adopted daughter, sister, whatever of Kent UK, I’d like to say there is no typical American as there is no typical English (person). As an American I always thought the typical Englishman was bend over backwards polite and found to my shock they are not. Not as a group. There is the problem… The group. Individuals are nice and polite or they are not. Max has not cornered the market on nice in America. There’s lots and lots of Americans just as nice. If you base your judgement on tv shows or films or even on the occasional meeting with an over stressed visitor to this country you are not getting a true picture. There… nuff said.Harumph over. It was very nice to meet you Max. Sorry I didn’t spend too much time hanging about to chat. American accents remind me of how homesick I am at the moment. I know poor excuse for being impolite. Really enjoyed your music as well as that of my English family. And a huge thank you to Adrian O and the landlady and staff at the Chequers Inn who all must be utterly exhausted today. I look forward to next year’s. Oh, I will put that on the Ash thread too. Hugs to all, especially Hils who is working so hard to make this adventure for Max.

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